As many of you are diving deeper into sewing for yourselves, I’m sure you're also creating more muslins to fine-tune the fit of each pattern according to your unique body shape. Here are my top 15 tips to guide you through the process!

muslin-tips

  1. Opt for an affordable, slightly stiff muslin fabric. There's no need to splurge on premium quilting cotton from the fabric store. A stiffer fabric makes it easier to identify fit issues compared to overly drapey and soft materials. Look for something with a bit of stiffness, and avoid prewashing your fabric. I purchase my muslin by the bolt at Steinlauf and Stoller in New York. It’s incredibly cost-effective and not something you'd want to wear in everyday life.
  2. Choose the appropriate size based on your shoulders and high bust measurements. Adjusting the full bust and other parts of the pattern is simpler than altering the shoulders and high bust. Focus on getting the right size in those areas to minimize the time spent tweaking the fit. For more details, check out this post.
  3. After tracing or cutting out your paper pattern, use a 6-inch ruler to mark all the seam lines.
  4. If you already know you’ll need to perform a full-bust adjustment (FBA) or modify the pattern in other ways, make that adjustment before cutting out your muslin. If you're unsure, consult the measurement charts to better understand how the pattern compares to your body. For further guidance, refer to this post.
  5. If you anticipate needing extra room in certain areas (like the waistline), leave extra seam allowances in those sections to allow for easy adjustments later. This post provides useful tips on blending between sizes if you know you'll require additional space in specific areas.
  6. Skip facings and linings, and simply fold under the seam allowances at necklines and collars. This simplifies checking and altering the neckline while saving time and effort when creating the muslin.
  7. Use carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the seam lines from the paper pattern onto the right side of your muslin. This ensures you can easily identify the original seam lines when making modifications to the muslin.
  8. Baste together all the major pattern pieces in muslin and press the seam allowances as you would with the final garment. A well-pressed muslin makes it significantly easier to assess the fit.
  9. Wear well-fitting undergarments. Ideally, wear the same underpinnings you plan to use when wearing the finished garment.
  10. Ask someone to take photos of you from all angles. Ensure there’s adequate lighting (natural daylight works best). Photos often reveal issues that might go unnoticed in a mirror, and they provide a fresh perspective on the garment. I regularly rely on photos when working on fit adjustments.
  11. Examine every aspect of the garment, starting at the shoulders and working downward. Look for drag lines (fabric folds) that can indicate areas requiring adjustment. Don’t forget to check the hem length!
  12. If you're sewing for yourself, it helps to collaborate with a sewing-savvy friend. Fitting another person’s body is usually easier than fitting your own. When working solo, make small adjustments incrementally and try on the garment after each change.
  13. Invest in a copy of the book *Fit for Real People*, which offers clear and comprehensive guidance on fit. This resource is invaluable whether you're sewing for yourself or others, and you'll likely refer to it frequently.
  14. Remember that ease is your ally! Every garment should include some built-in room for movement, and certain designs incorporate additional design ease. For more insights on ease, check out this post.
  15. After modifying the muslin, transfer your changes back to the pattern. Use the original carboned seam lines as a guide to update the paper pattern. If the modifications are extensive, consider disassembling the muslin and creating a new pattern by tracing the pressed muslin pieces onto fresh paper.

I hope these tips prove helpful!



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One last thing I’d like to mention is that patience is key when it comes to fitting. Sometimes, the first muslin won't be perfect, but that's okay—it's part of the learning process. Embrace the trial-and-error approach, and over time, you'll develop a keen eye for identifying and resolving fit issues. Sewing is a skill that improves with practice, so keep experimenting and refining your techniques. Happy sewing!

Poly Satin

SHAOXING XINGZHOU TEXTILE CO.,LTD , https://www.eurofashiontextile.com

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