It hurts and hurts, and the fire is reborn. Not long ago, Zhuang Ji re-emerged in front of everyone with a private custom smart factory built with a total investment of 165 million yuan. This time, not only is Zhuang Ji, but the once-failing Wenzhou traditional clothing industry is also striding in the spring of personalized customization.

In September 2015, financial writer Wu Xiaobo published the article "The Death of Zhuang Ji". The "Zhuangji", once regarded as the vane of Wenzhou clothing, has faded out of sight for two years. The collapse of Zhuangji was, to a certain extent, the epitome of the growing troubles faced by the entire Wenzhou garment industry at that time. The total output value of Wenzhou clothing fell by more than 5% for several consecutive years.

It hurts and hurts, and the fire is reborn. Not long ago, Zhuang Ji re-emerged in front of everyone with a private custom smart factory built with a total investment of 165 million yuan. This time, not only is Zhuang Ji, but the once-failing Wenzhou traditional clothing industry is also striding in the spring of personalized customization. In Wenzhou, in addition to Zhuangji, a number of Wenzhou clothing brand companies such as Baoxin Bird and Dongmeng are seeking transformation through personalized customization. The proportion of private customization of individual small and medium-sized clothing enterprises has even increased from 30% to an unprecedented 70%. Some “small and beautiful” customized shops are also emerging in the streets of Wenzhou, and a strong custom atmosphere has been formed in the Wenzhou clothing industry. The positive role of personalized customization also seems to be reflected in the data: from January to July this year, Wenzhou's enterprises above the scale of apparel apparel business income of 14.487 billion yuan, a year-on-year growth rate of 7.6%, total profit of 1.203 billion yuan, an increase of 11.1 %.

Then, can personalization lead Wenzhou clothing to create new glory? With such questions, the reporter walked into this "China Casual Wear City" to find the answer...

New workshop

“As long as it takes a few seconds, you can record your body data through the airport's smart body machine. Then you can match your own data to a suit with a matching suit. After 5 days, it will come to you. Hands.” Wu Bangdong, CEO of Wenzhou Zhuangji Garment Co., Ltd., told the reporter about a future consumption scene in the general manager's office at No. 586, Pingrui Road, Kunyang Town, Pingyang County, Wenzhou. With the improvement of VR and intelligent manufacturing technology, Wu Bangdong's personalized experience of “a few seconds of body, a few days of ready-to-wear” may be realized in the near future.

Into the production workshop of Wenzhou Zhuangji Garment Co., Ltd., 5 automatic cutting machines are lined up in a row. For each piece of fabric, the cutting method should be adjusted according to the computer prompts; the color, style and fabric of each suit are not hung. Every station is equipped with a computer identification terminal. The worker scans the magnetic strip of the material and processes it according to the displayed data... "This is the only one in the world that integrates from the surface accessories warehouse to the finished product storage. Intelligent production line." Wen Zhengyan, head of the cutting group.

Compared with Zhuang Ji, in the field of personalized customization, more than ten years of newsbirds have more say.

“Although Baoxin Bird launched the tailor-made business as early as 2003, it is only after the completion of the intelligent production transformation that it can truly realize the customized production.” Qiu Chengkui, vice president of Baoxin Bird Group Co., Ltd., told reporters that since 2015 Since then, the newsletter has gradually deployed an interconnected intelligent system. The project includes “one body and two wings”. The MTM intelligent manufacturing transparent cloud factory is the main body, and the private cloud platform and the big data cloud platform are shared. Through the construction of intelligent hanging, MES manufacturing execution, intelligent ECAD, automatic cutting machine, etc., Baoxin Bird has realized the "one stream, one person one version, one dress one" full-class modular customer independent design, overcoming individuality The contradiction between quality and efficiency: the production efficiency increased by 50%, the production cycle was reduced from an average of 15 days to 7 days, the production capacity was expanded from 600 pieces per day to 1,200 pieces, and the pass rate increased from 95% to 99%.

New benefits

Intelligent transformation brings about productivity and efficiency improvement, and also brings considerable economic benefits to the company. Since 2015, the personalized customization business has achieved an annual growth of more than 50%, and the material consumption and energy consumption have decreased by 10%. Streamlined by 10%, in 2016, the company realized a custom business income of 800 million yuan, and will exceed 1.2 billion yuan in 2017. “In July last year, we were fortunate to be the only garment company in the province that successfully evaluated the 2016 smart manufacturing pilot demonstration project.” Qiu Chengkui said proudly.

“We now receive more than 300 custom orders per month on average, and we have to provide them to more than 10 custom stores.” Chen Qizhi, chairman of Wenzhou Feilong Apparel Co., Ltd., admitted that since the transformation from mass production to private custom business three years ago The company's benefits far exceeded his expectations. Chen Qizhi, who has done wholesale business for more than 20 years, is best able to achieve an annual output value of 40 to 50 million yuan. “In 2014, Wenzhou clothing market set off a trend of private customization. At that time, I had a chance to come.” So, Chen Qizhi specially set up a custom production workshop in the factory, dispatched staff for training, re-engineered the process, and opened the customized business. market.

“The profit of a custom-made garment is equivalent to 100 pieces of wholesale clothing.” Chen Qizhi told reporters that the previous clothing volume, the meager single piece of profit depends on the amount of large, now privately ordered by high-quality experience, breaking the small Lido The situation of sales. "Although at the moment, the running volume is higher than the customized profit, but I am willing to pay for the future, personalized customization will be the trend in the future." Chen Qizhi believes in this.

In addition to the profit growth of the company, personalized customization also provides a new path for companies to build brands and expand the market. “In the past, orders that were sold abroad, we can only send large goods to local stores, can not enter the local market, it is even more difficult to promote the brand.” Qiu Chengkui said that with the development of personalized customization business, the original closed The channel was opened and foreign customers were directly connected to the factory. By the high-quality service and cultural output, the newsletter can gradually establish a reputation among the growing number of foreign customers, thus creating a brand image of the newsbird in the local market.

New ecology

In June of this year, Wenzhou harvested a “Chinese clothing fashion custom demonstration base” gold business card, which means that Wenzhou clothing customization industry has reached a new level. Behind this business card is not only the development of large-scale clothing enterprises, but also the important weight of the “small and beautiful” fashion custom shop.

In the open source road in Wenzhou City, the reporter found that the shops along the street are hung with the "Advanced Customization" brand. Since 2012, after the opening of the first clothing customization store, the custom business has been popular on this street every year. Into the corner of the "Isgar" women's custom shop, the reporter met Zhang Yanyu who is fitting clothes in the store, she told reporters that because of her fat body, she went to the custom shop to buy clothes for three consecutive years, "mainly because of customization The clothing style fits and the style is unique.” Engaged in the women's custom business for 5 years, Wenzhou businessman Zheng Xiuxian witnessed the changes in the custom shop along the street. She said: "Five years ago, there were fewer localized clothing stores. Nowadays, the public is increasingly pursuing individualization in dressing, and custom clothing is becoming more and more sophisticated."

Not only do adults have customized needs for clothing, but children's apparel has also begun to move closer to the custom field. Also on Open Source Road, a custom-made clothing store looks different. After the founder of the 90s, Zheng Binnu promoted customized information through the WeChat public account, and her store quickly accumulated a large number of fans.

Compared with large enterprises with strategic customized production business, small stores have more refined and quality customized routes. On the people's road in the old city, the tailor-made shop LDIAMON has become the "new favorite" of the old street with its good reputation and excellent quality. “Recently received more than 40 orders every month, the busy season is even more busy.” After 80, Zheng Mai told reporters that from the selection of materials to ready-to-wear, they have to go through six processes, and the process of continuous modification and adjustment is only Guarantee the quality of clothing and satisfy customers.

“The Annunciation Birds transports garment raw materials and helps production and processing for four or five hundred clothing custom shops across the country. There are tens of thousands of orders a year.” Zhou Guoliang, general manager of Yunyi Intelligent Technology Co., Ltd. revealed that Yunyi is built by the Baoxin Bird. A bridge to work with personalized custom stores. Through this model, it not only broadens the clothing sales channels of large enterprises, but also guarantees the clothing production demand of small stores, and achieves a win-win situation. At the same time, it also forms a good national personalized customization “ecological circle”.

“Next, Wenzhou Garment will develop the first local standards for fashion customization and create a new glory for Wenzhou garment industry.” The relevant person in charge of the Wenzhou Clothing Chamber of Commerce said.

Editor in charge: Wang Zhen

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